Friday Food: Snackbar

Hey there, Rebel Nation!  This week, we have our first venture into a John Currence restaurant, his take on Bistro dining--Snackbar.  John Currence deserves the lion's share of the credit for the present-day food scene in Oxford.  Twenty years ago, he opened City Grocery on the square, and that kicked off a steady climb in the food culture of the area.  He now owns four restaurants (City Grocery, Boure, Snackbar, & Big Bad Breakfast), plus he had a hand in creating a number of other Oxford favorites, including Ajax Diner and Bottletree Bakery.  There's an expectation that anything affiliated with Currence will be top-notch, and that's why his restaurants are the most sought out by restaurant goers.

When Currence opened Snackbar, he opted away from the jam-packed Square, and chose a shopping center (gasp!) north of the Square.  And because of that, don't expect any kind of special ambience to envelope you outside the restaurant.  It's a shopping center, after all.  But when you step inside, the vibe is clear.  Dark woods, interesting lighting, a jovial but not raucous crowd...it's a cool place to eat, in the best sense of the word.  And there are subtle things that let you know this place is a little different.  The oyster bar is prominently featured; the water is served in carafes on the table; one of the bartenders has a handle-bar moustache.  The place strives to be alluringly distinctive, but in an understated way.

Let's start with drinks. Snackbar has, hands down, the most interesting cocktail menu in Oxford.  It changes seasonally and makes use of custom-made mixers (chipotle-infused agave syrup, housemade sweet potato liqueur, etc.).  Plus, these bartenders are the best mixologists in town.  If a drink is supposed to be stirred instead of shaken, it's stirred.  If the lemon peel needs to be flamed, it's flamed.  For a college town, that level of technique is often lacking, because let's face it, most folks don't care.  But for those that do care, Snackbar is the place to go.  At our dinner, I had one of the most fascinating drinks I'd had in a long while: an Antigua (anejo tequila, chipotle-infused agave, soda, and smoked orange).  Fascinating and delicious.

On the wine side, there's a really nice mix of reds or whites, fairly affordable.  Although you won't find, say, a sweet wine if you or a companion likes off-dry rieslings.  So, in that way, I guess the wine list is a little snobby, but again, that's kinda what this place caters to.  This is a foodie restaurant.

And you can see that most evidently on the menu.  John Currence has expertly nurtured the talent of chef Vishwesh Bhatt, and Bhatt has created a menu that has received regional and national recognition (including various nominations for Best New Chef in the region).  You start with the raw bar, which focuses on multiple varieties of oysters, shrimp, and crab.  This is the only place to consistently find fresh oysters in Oxford.  Additionally, starters venture into French staples, such as housemade pates and charcuterie.  You can sense that Currence basically set out to create a restaurant that has all the tasty food that Oxford didn't have previously.  And he achieves that wonderfully.

Soups and salads all look delicious, but I'll admit we've never had them.  We always start with oysters and charcuterie, then jump to entrees.  On the entree side, you'll find a unique fusion of Southern, European, and Indian cooking.  Here, salmon is served with tandoori spices and apple-walnut raita.  Confit of duck leg gets paired with butternut squash puree, sorghum, & bacon.  I personally recommend the Biloxi Stew, a mixed seafood offering with a delicious tomato broth scented with ginger and lemongrass.  Fusion at its best.  For more straightforward palates, there's a delicious roast chicken, as well as the bistro classic, steak frites (strip steak with fries).  And, speaking of the fries, those are truffle/parmesan fries--so tasty.  Other great sides include steamed popcorn rice and wilted kale.

The desserts aren't quite as adventurous as the entrees, but they're certainly delicious.  Pear & ginger tart, apple/cinnamon bread pudding, etc.  Tasty all around.  And just a quick word about service; the team there is quite good.  Knowledgeable and courteous.  Sometimes the crowd overwhelms them, particularly in the back, where they serve those sitting at the bar as well, but the vibe is so fun that you typically don't notice.

For those who prize the unique when in comes to dining, Snackbar blows every other Oxford restaurant out of the water.  And across the board, most of those risks pay off.  It takes and feels like a restaurant that doesn't belong in Oxford, but thank goodness it's here.

And as a bonus...perhaps when you eat there, John Currence will be around... :)